Imagine: Scallops with dressed with makgeolli vinaigrette, mackerel with black vinegar jelly, and soy-braised galbi wraps. There’s surely not a single other New York omakase spot tearing up the traditional sushi envelope like Mari, which finds its niche with a cross between Japanese temaki and Korean kimbap. Chef Sungchul Shim (Kochi) only serves more sustainable bigeye, and often offers just a single piece - as part of spicy tuna roll topped with crispy potato crisps. Ryan: Tired of eating bluefin tuna three or more ways at every other omakase parlor? Mari is the place for you. Wildcard/creative: MariĪ caviar salmon hand roll at Mari. So what follows is an account of some of our favorite sushi meals at multiple price levels. The 2011 documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi, in turn, energized and educated a customer base that wanted to appreciate sushi - without dropping an entire paycheck on dinner. But in the nearly two decades since that aristocratic venue opened, scores more high-end sushi venues have opened, some of them run by capable Masa alums, others having arrived from Japan and elsewhere. Once upon a time, Masa was the big-deal operator, and Michelin continues to navigate under the delusion that the Deutsche Bank Center restaurant, where dinner for two will top $2,000, is the country’s best sushi spot. But here’s the saving grace: While New York’s best sushi will always trend in an expensive direction, you don’t have to spend an iPad’s worth of funds on an omakase date to have an incredible meal. It’s an absurd reality, fueled by supply chain issues, labor costs, and let’s be honest, plain old-fashioned greed. The going rate for a top-tier New York sushi meal is $400 before sake.
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